by Jeremy Josephs, Freelance Writer and Journalist
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Disneyland is the number one tourist destination in France, but Parc Astérix has spectacular attractions that will thrill people of all ages—and give them a glimpse of real, and imagined, history.
At Parc Astérix, you are the hero. At
least that’s what the French spin doctors who praise the virtues of the theme
park would have you believe. They would never dare say so, of course, but its
all part of an ongoing war of propaganda between themselves and neighboring Disneyland,
just a thirty-minute car ride away. Ever since Mickey and Donald opened their
doors to the European public back in 1992 and catapulted themselves into the
number one tourist attraction in France, poor old Astérix has been fighting for
his very survival. Nevertheless, Astérix is a battle-hardened old warrior, and
there are signs that the tide might be turning in his favor.
It all began promisingly enough in 1989, 18
years after 6,000 copies of the first "Astérix le Gaulois" (published
by Albert Rene) book was sold to a receptive public. Barclays stepped forward
with 20% of the capital to fund the idea of the theme park, although the huge
multinational French conglomerate the Compagnie Générale des Eaux became the
largest shareholder with a 27% stake.
In 1987, work started on a site located in
the heart of a protected forest, 35 kilometers north of Paris. Alain Trouvé was
recruited from the hotel and catering firm Arche to run all matters relating to
restaurants and food, a weighty responsibility (considering how serious the
French are about their food—even on a fun day out).
"I was delighted to have been asked to
work at Astérix," Trouvé explains, "because I had read all of the
books as a child and joined the various clubs and so on. I have always had what
you might call the ‘Astérix spirit.’ It was as if something clicked in my mind.
So even though it was a big challenge, I accepted right away."
In the beginning, things went smoothly enough
to begin with, the park attracting 1.35 million visitors during its first year,
with a promising revisiting rate of 40%. The park itself generally won
widespread acclaim for its original and imaginative design. It is full of sight
gags, such as the bundle of hay for horses with the words "lead-free"
written on it and the dog’s bone in the shape of an Eiffel Tower. All terribly Frrrench
and entirely understandable because 85% of its visitors were from France.
In common with its unmentionable and
American-funded counterpart, Parc Astérix is divided up into a series of seven
separate sections, with 28 attractions, seven shows presented three to
six times daily, ten permanent attractions, a variety of guest artists, more
than 20 theme-based boutiques and 40 eateries, including six restaurants. Parc
Astérix takes its visitors on an extraordinary journey through time, from Gaul
to Ancient Rome to the Middle Ages, right up to the 20th century. Everyone is
plunged into a fun-packed world, where they meet up with a number of legendary,
fictional and even real life heroes straight from the pages of history,
including Zeus, Icard, d’Artignan and, of course, good old Astérix himself.
Parents can put all guilt feelings to one side because Parc Astérix provides an
excellent combination of education and fun.
Don't get the idea that Parc Astérix has
dispensed with rides and attractions. Far from it. The Menhir Express will take
you on a floating voyage to discover the Lake Dwellers’ Domain. Brace yourself
for a splashing time here, as you head for the waterfall. Goudurix is undoubtedly
one of the most impressive roller coaster rides in Europe, turning you upside
down no less than seven times with a plunging view of the Grand Lake! The Styx
Chute takes you down a raging torrent on gigantic inflatable rafts; the Flying
Chairs will put you in a spin, and give you the impression that you are flying
over the park; the Lernaean Hydra is inspired by the tasks of Hercules; the
Flight of Icarus leads to a labyrinth for an amazing voyage to the sun; the
Nationale 7 allows children to be at the wheel of a variety of old bangers; The
Big Splash meanders along a green-banked river; Caesar’s Carousel is a ride
where you can rub shoulders with the Gaulish heroes and Roman centurions, and
the Bumper Chariots lets young children drive their chariots to vanquish the
Roman enemy. Other attractions include the largest dolphinarium in Europe,
where the ballet of the dolphins takes place in the splendid Aquatic Theatre of
Poseidon.
Everything seemed to be wonderful in the best
of all possible theme-park worlds. And then, well, as far as Alain Trouvé was
concerned, it was as if he were being led off blindfolded into a haunted house
of horrors—and Disney horrors at that.
"When we opened in 1989 it was by no
means certain that Disney would come to Paris," Trouvé says. "There
was much talk about Barcelona. But when they did, we were all very afraid
because people were waiting for Disney to open. It was a washout in 1991, with
considerably less than 1.5 million visitors making their way through the newly installed
Astérix turnstiles. The atmosphere was one of war; one which we had lost before
it had even begun. As for 1992, well, we don’t like to mention that year any
more. We worked like crazy, and it was tough. Because each way you looked, or
listened, it was Disney, Disney, Disney."
The Disney publicity machine could not have
launched a more effective campaign. When a number of French intellectuals
derided the intrusion of American (non)culture, it was a case of "all
publicity is good publicity." The French public took to Mickey and Donald
with as much enthusiasm as they tuck into wine, bread and cheese.
"The press began to ask questions about
our surviving the onslaught," Trouvé says. "And there was talk of
some shareholders pulling the plug. But fortunately, Astérix is known for his
capacity to resist. We managed to fight back by carving out our own image and
place in the market. At Disney, the theme is very much on magic. It’s all very
visual. Here, we try to go more for hearts and minds for things that you can
live and feel. Action, meeting people and craftsmen—tangible things you can
touch and do."
Although Disney continues to top the tourist
sites in France with some 12 million visitors per year (more than double the
amount of people who visit the Eiffel Tower), Astérix can hold his mustachioed
head relatively high. It ranks ninth, between the Futuroscope at Poitiers and
the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. In fact, push Trouvé just a little and he will
admit to you that the entire Disney has overall been positive. Ever since 1992,
when Disney appeared on the French scene, Astérix’s attendance has risen
steadily.
It hardly accords with Astérix’s philosophy,
but once Disney had their mother-of-all thrills Space Mountain up and running,
the managers at Astérix began wondering what they might come up with to rival
such an attraction. It was a touch of the "if you can’t beat then, join
them" approach to life. Last year, they came up with their answer in the
form of their 50m F attraction. The Tonnere de Zeus ride is most definitely
not for the fainthearted. It is a gigantic wooden roller coaster over 30 meters
high, where vertiginous ascents and descents, a double loop-the-loop and
humpbacks follow one another at over 80 kilometers per hour. Here’s what the
European Coaster Club had to say: "A superb wooden coaster with all the
ingredients for the ride of lifetime. The noise of wood, the flexibility of the
rail, pumps which send you flying, dizzying drops…truly awesome!"
Astérix has forged links with other major theme
parks throughout Europe, including Alton Towers in England and Europa in
Germany. This informal and ad hoc anti-Disney alliance collaborates in terms of
management, technical expertise and marketing in an attempt to keep up with
their American-owned rival.
"We are expecting growth to
continue," Trouvé concludes optimistically. "That’s not because of
Disney—it’s thanks to Astérix. Although, I must admit that their presence
obliged us to forge a much clearer image and identity, and I guess that has to
be a good thing. What we have come to realize is that many people are seeking
to combine both theme parks, Disney on one day, Astérix the next. Now that has
to be good for the leisure industry as a whole."
Mickey Mouse and Astérix are apparently
coming to terms with one another, after all. And, perhaps, even living happily
ever after.
Jeremy Josephs is on the law faculty at Montpellier University. He
has written several books, including Swastika Over Paris, which charts
the history of the occupation of the French capital during the war years, and A
Château in the Dordogne, which is also available in French.
The Tonnere de Zeus is definitely not
for the fainthearted. It is a gigantic wooden roller coaster over 30 meters
high, where vertiginous ascents and descents, a double loop-the-loop and
humpbacks follow one another at over 80 kilometers per hour.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
English Web site:
French Web site:
Information and reservations
Tel: 03.44.62.34.34, Fax: 03.44.62.32.94
Address: Parc Astérix, BP 8, Plailly, France.
Opening hours
April – every day
May – every day apart from May 5, 12, 15, 19,
22, 26, 29
June – every day apart from June 5, 9
July and August – open every day
September/October – Wednesdays and Weekends
only
From 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Rates
Adult – one day 175 F, child (up to 12) 125 F
– under three years old, free
Two-day pass: 310 F, child 225 F
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Jeremy Josephs.
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Comments welcome.
Jeremy Josephs can be reached on the Web at: www.jeremyjosephs.com