"1999 was a record year for watch sales", he affirms with pride. "All sorts of factors combined to help us – more effective campaigning and publicity on the part of those working in the trade, the memorable arrival of the year 2000 – and a sound basis for the economy in general. Sales of luxury watches were up by almost 40% - a truly spectacular figure."

Dalin’s organisation sounds much prettier in French than in
English. And no article on the French watch and clock trade would be complete without a proper mention of the highly efficient CPDHBJO – the Comité Professionnel de Développement de l’Horlogerie, de la Bijouterie, de la Jouillerie et de l’Orfèvrerie - whose remit is to promote each and every aspect of the trade. Its name might not flow off of the tip of the tongue – but nothing is likely to stop Dalin’s bullish and upbeat tone. Why? Because the proof the watch is in the winding. Or, more precisely perhaps, in the selling. For the figures, needless to say, speak for themselves. Results for 1999 reveal that sales of watches increased by a some 10% to almost 6 billion French francs, with the average sale settling at around the £80 mark. Exports of watches were up by 14% on the previous year, with Switzerland remaining France’s most important customer – although France’s neighbour, is not their final destination. In fact trade with Switzerland came to 1,244 million French francs (watches, clocks, parts and bracelets) – which is almost 20% more than trade with all other European countries put together.

What then might account for the uncharacteristically upbeat tone emerging from Paris, Alsace, the Loire Valley, Franche-Comté and beyond? Well, undoubtedly, it’s largely to do with ‘the bigger picture’. That is to say that the French economy, famed to excessive centralisation, appalling bureaucracy and crippling social charges, seems finally to have turned the corner, having taken what Mrs. Thatcher used to refer to as a dose of painful but necessary medicine. It’s the same story in other sectors of the economy – especially in computers and high-tech – where there is more than the odd whiff of an emerging Silicon Valley à la française, especially in certain sections of the handsome French capital. There is a general feel-good effect, a return to confidence on the part of the consumer – some refer to it as a Millennium effect – with the result that people are digging deep into their pockets again. And nowhere is the sense of spend, spend, spend more in evidence that in the prestige watch category, as Dalin has pointed out – defined as models retailing for more than £700. The de luxe category (between £250 and £699), however, saw an increase of just 1%.

Its true, then, that economic climate in France has been precisely what the trade has been looking for. But representatives from the trade also point to more effective publicity and PR, diversity of distribution and – perhaps most important of all – a huge increase in the number of specialist retail watch units which has all but doubled in less than two years.

This rather positive ambience was very much in evidence with the 47 watch and clock industry representatives who made their way to the Basle fair, where they once again demonstrated a unique blend of know-how and creative innovation. For it is creativity, the French will tell you, which makes French watches and clocks stand out from the rest.

The emphasis, this year, has most certainly been on elegant and discrete watches, with pure and refined lines. That said, a number of bulky models have appeared on the market – some with a distinctly futurist look – rather reminiscent of flying saucers. Nor has the preference for white metal proved to be transitory – steel in particular – but chrome, silver, palladium and titanium have been going well too.

Chronographs are no longer the exclusive domain of men – a number becoming available in women’s models, with smaller sizes and softer colours including pastels, lime green and, biensur, champagne.

This reinforces another point the French watch industry is determined to get across: one of style – or styles. France boasts 140 manufacturers in these industries, employing over six thousand souls – and the message is coming through, loud and clear, that the watch ought to be considered as a fashion accessory, rather than purely functional item, something to harmonise and blend in according to the time and circumstances of the day – or night.

Two companies have been dining out along these lines. Both of them based in Charquemont and both fierce rivals. Clyda’s spring and summer collection highlight the themes of charm, freshness and a golden feel – especially noticeable in its Olivea model. While Saint-Honore’s Orphélia seeks the best of both worlds. To boast a design which is refined and classical – whilst modern at the same time. Its rectangular case, slightly rounded, is perfectly integrated into the line of the bracelet while proportions and shapes maintain an innate harmony and skilful balance. "A model of great sobriety, created in the spirit of contemporary architecture", the company’s sales marketing literature informs you.

For men, however, the theme at Basle was one of elegance, sobriety and restraint. The designer Alan Still is a good example of this at work – although, it has to be said, he has been anything but still. Working with Titanium, his range offers an alternative way to be original and to indulge oneself – but without ostentation. Small wonder that he continues to create a name for himself with his Titanium range as someone at the cutting edge of elegant and creative watch-design.

It goes without say, does it not, that the watch band, bracelet and leather manufacturers have little cause to complain, being swept along with the rest on the tide of a booming industry. Zuccolo Rochet, for example, the Annecy-based company, employing 220 people in three separate factories, has little cause to complain. Founded shortly after the turn of the last century, it has forged itself into a position of being market leader in France and in northern Europe for watch replacement straps. Claude Brunet, the company’s director of marketing is, uncharacteristically for a Frenchman, a man of few words: "Business is going very well", he says. Need he say more?

In clocks, the message is one of variety and diversity in style, shapes, materials and colours. Which means that the range goes from traditional models in solid wood that have been carved and chiselled – right through to more modern designs which have a clearly futuristic look. But that is France for you – rooted in tradition – but with her eyes set very much to the future.

It’s difficult to find a sour note in this overview of the French watch and clock trade. For parts manufacturers have likewise never had it so good. Cheval Frères Ltd, the Besançon company founded over 150 years ago, has reported record results, its rang of crowns and winders in gold and steel going like the proverbial petits pains – that’s the French equivalent of hot cakes.

Hardly surprising, then, that the CPDHBJO boss is distinctly upbeat in respect of the weeks and months ahead.

"The dynamism of the trade which we have witnessed in 1999 in terms of watch sales in France ought to continue this year. The year 2000 itself – and those thereafter – should confirm and reinforce the internationalisation seen within the French market. After all, France remains the number one tourist destination in the world – and many tourists find a huge amount of diversity with both French and foreign watch brands. Our network of distribution has improved – and the recent growth in the number of specialist watch retail units likewise gives us confidence for a rosy future for the trade."

As the clock edged towards the midnight hour on December 31^st just nine months ago – cities around the world were bracing themselves to see who could come up with the most impressive display. Sydney got off to an impressive start. But few were in any doubt that it was the dazzling display of pyrotechnics stages around the Eiffel Tower by the French fireworks wizard Christophe Bertonneau which stole the show. A metaphor for the French watch and clock trade? Well, certainly this year has gone off with a bang. The message from the trade is a resounding ‘long may it continue’.

There have been a lot of golds in France, of late. Dozens of medals at the Olympics, victory in the World Cup, runners up in the Rugby, gold medals galore in the ice-skating. Whatever next? Just as well, therefore, that the French jewellery trade has been doing its part in churning out the metal in all its glorious shapes and forms to an ever-eager French public. For in France its undoubtedly la fête de l’or –which is more than a hollow marketing slogan – and where the order of the day seems to be an apparently endless appetite on the part of French men and women to get a taste of golden glory.

Michel Dalin, who heads up the French Watch, Clock, Jewellery and Silverware Center, is certainly not complaining:

"For the second year running", he says, "there has been significant growth in the French jewellery trade. In my view this is attributable to three factors – a favourable national and international economic and framework within which to operate, a rekindling of the concept of consumption on the part of French men and women – and a not unrelated knock on benefit from the millennium effect. Our impressive results can also be attributed to a greater effort being made by those working within the trade – both in terms of creation and communication. All of these factors have blended together and the results are there for all to see."

The French have long been masters in the art of making jewellery, with a reputation that has grown over the centuries. But its trump card has undoubtedly been creativity – an ability to combine with cutting-edge technology with skills that retain their mastery of hand-made jewellery and that one-off unique piece. Whatever the magic ingredient, it is a combination that is paying off where it counts – in High Streets up and down France. For the second consecutive year sales are up in la belle France by 5%, with an annual turnover reaching over 34 billion francs. More creativity, more choice, more information – the experts are not dwelling unduly on why turnover is up – rather concentrating their efforts as to how to maintain momentum for the year ahead.

What is clear, however, is that there has been a marked return to romanticism, with a number of lines giving an impression of transparency, with light and airy shapes such as intertwining designs, scrolls, filigree-work, lace, nets and the like. The arrival of the millennium – which captured the imagination of the French more than any other people in Europe – seems to have triggered off a trend towards simple and geometrical shapes too, with straight and solid lines, sometimes moving towards a minimalist style. Other themes which have been in evidence around Paris and the other major cities of France have been that of nature (flowers, leaves, representations of animals), the renewal of religious jewellery (crosses and medallions) and a move towards an ever-growing acceptance of the influence of ancient or faraway cultures, such as Viking, Celtic, Greek and Chinese inspirations.

But it is the sale of gold that has accounted for a truly glittering year in France. Over 18 million items of gold jewellery were sold, accounting for a turnover of almost 16 billion French francs. And retailers were delighted to see the value of an average sale increasing by more than the rate of inflation, and now stabilising at over £80. The area of sales in which the growth has been the most significant has been for those items selling for over £200 – a trend clearly welcomed by those in manufacturing and retailing alike.

The move towards white metals has continued apace, a trend illustrated by Garel’s inspired collection, which was particularly well received at this year’s fair at Basle. Although only founded in 1986, Jean-Marc Garel comes from a tradition in jewellery going back over half a century. "My collections aspire to be high quality", he affirms, "with an emphasis on jewellery which has originality, charm and timeless spirit, which seduce with their contemporary lines." His ‘Estrella’ collection – white gold rings with semi-precious stones and brilliant diamonds has been particularly well received.

Silver is likewise back with a vengeance – sales up by 20% in the latest set of figures released by French Water, Clock, Jewellery and Silverware Center, the trade’s representative body which campaigns effectively to represent the interests of its members. Within France over 3000 manufacturers are to be found, bustling enterprises employing over 11,000 highly-skilled men and women – and between them generating an impressive annual turnover of over 10 billion French francs. France’s main trading partner, in terms of exports, remains Switzerland, followed by the European Union, Japan, the United States, Benin and the island of Mauritius. Loose stone and pearl exports likewise account for almost 800 million francs worth of trade.

The company Bellon reported good results, both pre and post-Basle. Created shortly after the turn of the last century, the company remains a family-run business, but one that has skilfully adapted its production and marketing knowledge to fit the more demanding and competitive market conditions of today. The brand Bellon Créateur was launched in 1990 and has become the true signature for the company’s jewellery designs. Based in the southern city of Valence, some 60 employees have between them produced an impressive range of rings, earrings, pendants and necklaces – mostly in 18 carat gold – in a series of collections which is renewed at least twice a year with the help of both company and freelance designers. In keeping with the mood of the millennium, its ‘Solaluna’ ring combination of gold surface and diamond pavés reminiscent of the eclipse of the sun and moon has proved to be particularly popular in France.

"Gold jewellery and stones have been the biggest winners during 1999", Dalin states. "Diamonds, coloured stoned, both precious and semi-precious, pearls – especially those coming from Tahiti – all of these have gone down well with French customers during these last twelve months of trading. White gold has likewise consolidated its position, answering as it does a desire for renewal on the part of customers who are drawn towards new harmonies, an ‘easy-to-wear’ feel – in addition to the modernity of white metal. As for product groups, its necklaces that have seen the greatest increase in sales, and notable those with stone pendants. And that is true even if rings continue to represent the greatest single item in terms of turnover."

1999 saw almost 30 million items of jewellery sold in France. A detailed breakdown of these many and varied purchases reveals that women are becoming increasingly important as buyers – accounting for over three-quarters of these sales. French women have apparently been demonstrating their new-found financial independence by treating themselves to items of jewellery because it represents, according to the CPDHBJO, ‘l’achat plaisir par excellence’. One of those phrases which loses all meaning when translated into English – but the spirit of which is that French women are indulging themselves, treating themselves to jewellery because they feel they deserve it! Birthdays account for quarter of all items purchased, Christmas 23.7%, and Mother’s day 5.9%.

The gold which has proved to be such a winner in France this year has, needless to say, come in all shapes and sizes. But particularly popular have been chains designed to catch the eye of the consumer through the originality of their links – especially the ‘jaseron’ style, marine, ‘forçat’, horseshoe, flat, snake – and so on. Bracelets and rings of hand-woven flat links or square wire were also all very much in vogue, especially modes with grey gold and diamonds, and those tending to adopt modern shapes. They became square, flatter, with cut sides and paving. Solitaires also made an impressive comeback, thanks to more modern settings, some with visible collets, claws, closed settings and intertwined ribbons.

These trends were much in evidence in Albert Altero’s collection, especially his 37-gram white gold bracelet encrusted with diamonds. Based in his workshop in Nice, right in the heart of the French Riviera, he has consistently produced some of the most elegant and attractive jewellery seen this year on the French market – his company’s financial results reflecting healthy sales for the previous twelve month’s trading. The Lyon-based firm Charles Perroud likewise had little cause to complain. For its range of 18ct pendants – available with both real gems or synthetic stones – proved to be vote-winners both in Basle and elsewhere.

Is there a mood of optimism, then, in France? Biensur. Dalin captures the mood of those working in the trade.

"An object of seduction par excellence, precious stones can only continue to develop its position as an essential component part of how a woman looks and dresses. It is the richness in terms of creativity, the diversity and permanent renewal of products being produced by our manufacturers and French distributors which is enabling us to cast our jewellery net ever wider amongst all sections of the public. The significant growth in terms of sales in respect of our international clientele confirms the increasing important role being played by France thanks to the huge chose of collections available and by the excellence of our network of distribution."

The message from France, then, and from those working in the trade is simple and clear - ‘bonne continuation’.