RAYMOND WEIL
Watchmaker
Extraordinaire
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josephs@crit.univ-montp2.fr Comments welcome.It’s a sure sign that you are talking to a French-speaker when food is introduced into the conversation. For when asked what has been the key to his remarkable success in the trade for the best part of half of a century Raymond Weil will tell you right away that life is bears more than a passing resemblance to the preparation of a good salad dressing. "A little salt, some pepper, a touch of mustard – and the right quantity of vinegar – you have to be sure that the mix is right."
And what might those ingredients be when it comes to the world of watches? "Professionalism", the Swiss wristocrat will tell you, "honesty, integrity – and the right blend of style, design and technology". He might not spend much time, nowadays, in the kitchens – but at 73 Weil is undoubtedly a legend in the industry, successfully serving up over 600,000 pieces each year in 85 countries around the globe. "Some achievement", says Weil, "when you consider that many of my competitors have been around 150 years. I am just a youngster – at least in this business!"
No wonder he was sought after to hold high office. He has been President of the Union of Geneva Watch Manufacturers, Vice President of the Watch and Jewellery Industry International Centre of Management of Market Studies – in addition to holding positions in the Federation of Swiss Watch Industry and in many employer associations. Closer to home, he was also President of the Exhibitors Committee at the Basle World Watch, Clock and Jewellery Show.
"I think what makes us unique", he continues, "is that we remain one of the rare family and wholly independent companies in the world of Swiss watch-making – in an age where international conglomerates – especially French and Italian groups are constantly moving across the border and snapping up Swiss firms."
Weil was born in 1926 in Geneva. During the war his parents fled to France. But he denies that his family’s wartime experiences (38 relatives were lost in the concentration camps) motivated him in any way. "It was more a question of wanting to getting on and to succeed in your professional life – same as it is today for anyone starting off in life."
In 1949, he joined a small watch company owned by a friend’s father. It had only three employees. "I did everything – postman, salesman, office manager. I stayed 27 years. Then the owner died and his family started fighting. Its terrible what can happen in family businesses some times."
But not, evidently, chez Raymond Weil. For the progressive transition of power has gone extremely smoothly with Weil’s son-in-law, Olivier Bernheim joining the company in 1982. Indeed, it is the combination of Weil’s hands-on experience in the trade and Bernheim’s more formal business training that has proved to be such an effective combination. Weil remains Chairman whilst Bernheim is President and CEO.
Raymond Weil watches are now sold in over 8,000 outlets around the globe – including 30 airlines and the world’s largest duty-free outlets. The most important market is America, which accounts for some 20% of turnover, followed by the UK and Austria. The price range varies from 1500 Swiss francs (for a stainless steel watch in the Parsifal collection) to 10,000 francs for an 18k model studded with diamonds. (See illustrations).
What of turnover? "I’m afraid that because we remain a private company we don’t release those figures to the press", Mr. Bernheim interjects. "Let’s just say that we are ranked as the number four company among leading Swiss brands – so no one is complaining too loudly around here." A connoisseur of music, Bernheim’s passion for the arts (he is married to Weil’s daughter Diana, herself a professional pianist) led him to develop Raymond Weil’s musical strategy. The advertising campaigns ‘Precision and Movement’ and ‘Celebrate the Moment’, reflect the company’s commitment to the world of music, dance and the arts. Many of the collections take their name from operas such as Parsifal and Don Giovanni or have musical themes such as Tango, Saxo and Chorus.
Continuity has also been one of Weil’s watchwords – for while half of the company’s designs are produced in-house, the other half have come from the same tried and tested outside source for over two decades. Whilst Weil is happy to talk to you about old-fashioned values and the good old days on the road, Bernheim (a graduate in law with a further diploma from a leading from business school) is full of fighting talk which includes terms such as ‘marketing mix’‘image awareness’ and the like. "I don’t think there is any fundamental difference in our approach", he insists, "its rather a question of ensuring that our marque remains appealing and attractive and available in as many markets as possible." And to this end he set about introducing various organisational and structural changes within the company. He now spends most of his time flying around the world from Raymond Weil’s Geneva headquarters, which employs 80 people.
Do these differences complement each other? Most certainly – for the proof of the watch is undoubtedly in the wearing – with last year’s sales up by an impressive 20%.
Which might lead one to believe that the time had come for Raymond Weil to hang up his watch bracelet for the last time. "Not at all", says the older man. "I can’t say that the word ‘retirement’ is something that features highly on my list of priorities. I enjoy the trade and I enjoy what I do."
Having qualified as pilot when still a spring chicken of 56, Raymond Weil will not hesitate to list those qualities which, he believes, were responsible for his success and that of his company.
"I would like to be remembered", he concludes, "as a person who was honourable in everything he did. You have to be fair and honest, hard working and professional in each and every aspect of your work. But these are qualities that are not limited to the world of watches in any way. They are as true and relevant for the selling of cars and carrots – and just about everything else in between. I told you at the beginning – mix that lot together and you’ll make yourself a fine vinaigrette."
The main Web site of freelance writer Jeremy Josephs is at
www.jeremyjosephs.com Please check there if you might be interested in engaging him as a writer.Many of his articles are available online. Please check the
sitemap for a complete list.